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| Please select your area of interest from the below topics. |
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Aromatherapy Tips
Beekeeping Tips
Candy Making Tips
Candle Making Tips
HONEYSTIX Tips
HONEY Tips
Soap Making Tips
Body Care Tips
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| Aromatherapy Tips |
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- Always follow directions and warnings on label.
- Keep out of reach of children.
- Always dilute essential oils with vegetable oils before applying them directly to your skin.
- Keep oils away from eyes and mucous membranes.
- Stop using oil immediately if redness, burning, itching or irritation occurs.
- Always research each oil thoroughly before using. Some oils can not be used if you have certain health conditions.
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| Beekeeping Tips |
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Once you have made the decision to keep bees, you will need some special equipment to get started. The following list describes the items that you will need initially:
- One standard ten frame hive with a top, a bottom, frames, foundation, and nails. This box will be used as the brood chamber where your queen bee will lay her eggs and where new bees will be raised.
- A hive tool for prying frames apart when you are inspecting your hive.
- A bee smoker to subdue bees when inspecting the hive or taking honey off.
- An entrance reducer to provide insulation in the winter.
- A bee hat and veil to protect your face.
- Gloves to protect your hands.
- A feeder for feeding your bees sugar syrup until they can start collecting nectar.
- Bees. We recommend to purchase a 3 lb. package which contains about 10,000 bees. Arrangements to purchase bees should be made sometime in February or March. Don't wait too long because your bees will need enough time to build combs and raise new bees before the main honey flow.
- A beginner's book on Beekeeping. We recommend "First Lessons in Beekeeping" by Dadant.
As your hive grows, you will need to purchase more equipment which may include an additional full depth super for your bees to raise additional brood if they have run out of room in the initial hive, two western supers with frames and foundation for your bees to store honey in, a queen excluder to keep your queen bee from laying eggs in the honey supers, and a bee escape screen which allows the bees to get out of the western supers when it is time to take the honey off. Other items that are very important to purchase after the first honey flow are medications including Apistan Strips, Terramycin, Menthol crystals, and Fumidil-B. These medications are very important to protect your bees from the various pests and diseases that can affect them.
This provides you with the general information needed to get started. If you need additional information, please email us.
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| Candy Making Tips |
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Melting:
Chocolate should be melted at a temperature between 104 and 113 degrees F. Chocolate should never be placed in direct contact with the heat source. Preferably it should be melted in a double boiler.
Tempering:
The purpose of tempering chocolate is to pre-crystallize the cocoa butter in the chocolate, which is related to the working temperature of the chocolate. During tempering, the cocoa butter in the chocolate changes into a stable crystalline form. It ensures the hardness, shrinking force and gloss of the finished product. For methods on tempering or for more information, please call our toll free number.
Storage:
Chocolate is sensative to humidity, odors and oxidation (if in contact with air and light). It should be protected against light and air by storing it in a cool, dry place at a consistent temperature between 53 and 68 degrees F. Always ensure that the packaging used to store chocolate in is properly closed.
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Melting:
Microwave Method: (Recommended)
Place microwave safe container with wafers in microwave for 1 minute on defrost. Stir, and microwave on defrose for 30 seconds. Repeat until wafers are melted and smooth.
Double Boiler Method: (Water should not touch bottom of top section)
Heat water on low stove temperature. Water should not boil, chocolate could burn. Place wafers into top section and stir until wafers are melted and smooth.
Uses:
Molding: Pour melted wafers into clean, dry molds. Tap molds on counter to release air bubbles. Place in refrigerator to cool and harden (approx. 15 minutes). Turn molds upside down and flex to release candies.
Fondue/Dipping: Dip dried fruit, nuts, cookies, pretzels or anything into melted wafers. Great for parties.
Drizzles: Drizzle over cakes and cookies for perfect decorations.
Toppings: Pour over brownies and cakes for great icings and toppings.
Tips:
* Any water moisture will cause melted wafers to become lumpy and thick.
* Store wafers at room temperature, do not refrigerate or freeze.
* If melted product is too thick add vegetable oil to thin product.
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| Candle Making Tips |
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When pouring wax into a glass container you automatically eliminate several problems prevalent with normal wick candles, but new problems arise in their stead. Though these present no real difficulties - a Little know-how at the outset will make your job easier and assure the successful creation of an attractive, properly burning candle.
Perhaps the most important step is first procuring the proper wax and wick. A softer wax is desired for any container candle to assure the even melting of wax across the top of the candle. A hard wax would not melt around the outside edge, thus, Leaving an unsightly ridge of wax clinging to the side of the glass. A soft wax eliminates this problem, regardless of the diameter of the container. If the diameter is relatively small - the wax melts; if Large the wax is soft enough to press down with your fingers. A wax with a melting point between 120"-135" should be most satisfactory for this purpose. For something entirely new in creating glass container candles Candle Dust is now available; this is merely pre-colored wax in a granular form which may be poured directly into the glass without the need of melting the wax beforehand. The ease with which this wax may be used has made it quite popular with many candle crafters, though many prefer the more professional appearance provided with the regular candle wax, which is the type of wax covered in these instructions.
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A paper core is recommended for two reasons: 1) it has better burning qualities and 2) its ease of application. Because of its rigidity, this wick will not "drown" itself in the pool of Liquid wax, which is normally deeper in container candles. - Its rigidity also prevents a "floating wick" while the wax is in a Liquid state and even permits the insertion of the wick after the wax has been poured.
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If you have proper wax and wick at your disposal - then let's proceed with the actual steps of creating a glass container candle.
- Prepare the paper core wick for insertion by securing the upper portion to a wick holder (any rod or pencil will do) and the lower end to a wick tab. The Length of the wick should be about 1/4" shorter than the desired depth of the wax, so that the wick tab does not touch the bottom of the glass.
- Determine the correct depth of the hot water bath in which the glass container will be placed after pouring. The water Level should be of sufficient depth to allow the glass container to be immersed to within 3/4" from the top of the glass or to the point of wax Level in the glass.
- Just prior to pouring wax, the container should be preheated to 150°. This will improve the finish visible through the glass, by helping eliminate "wet spots", Lines, and bubbles. This is particularly important when you pour at wax just above the melt point. Containers may be preheated in an oven or hot water bath; however should be brought up to temperature gradually to prevent cracking due to thermal shock.
- Pour in the wax, insert the wick, and allow cooling. The hotter the wax, the more it will shrink, so pouring is best done just above the melting point of your wax formula (about 160'). If the container has not been preheated, pouring at a low temperature will cause the wax to alternately cool and flow going up the walls leaving a lined effect. Immediately after pouring, tap the sides a few times to dislodge any air bubbles. You will need to slow cool your containers to prevent the wax from pulling away from the glass, causing "wet spots" You can do this by placing the container in a hot water bath, placing it in an oven, wrapping with newspaper, or placing in an insulated cooler.
- As in the large molded candles, a well will form on the top surface caused by the contraction of the cooling wax; this should be refilled. In the Larger glass container candles you must also insert a long stick two or three times near the wick to relieve the "surface tension" and to admit air into the void area formed by the settling wax. Refill this cavity with Left over wax.
- When the wax is cold - merely trim the wick and the candle is ready for decorating (if decorating is desired). Should the surface wax inside the glass appear cloudy or frosty - a clear finish may be acquired by placing the entire candle in hot water for a few minutes.
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A major factor accounting for the increasing popularity of glass container candles is that the decoration remains intact during the entire life of the candle - and longer if the glass is refilled with wax when the initial pouring has been consumed. With a normal molded candle - the decoration either burns away along with the candle or must be disassembled as the candle burns down, but such is not the case with a candle in glass. Consequently, any type of elaborate decoration may be applied without the prospect of their being "consumed" along with the candle.
Some of the more popular items used primarily for decorating glass container candles and sold at most well stocked craft stores are:
Glass Stain, Cryst-L-Craze, Plastic Netting, Rineglas Transfers, Sequins, Glass Droplets, and Glass Nuggets.
- GLASS STAIN - Since this stain is applied to the interior of the glass, it must be applied prior to pouring the wax into the glass. Simply pour about a teaspoon into the glass and "roll" the stain around until the entire interior is coated. Pour the excess back into the bottle and position the glass upside down on a nail or peg until the coating has completely dried.
- CRYST-L-CRAZE - For a colorful frosty appearance nothing compares with Cryst-L-Craze! Merely paint it on the exterior of the glass - let it dry - and behold the transition to an array of elegant crystalline formations.
- PLASTIC NETTING - This netting has been extremely popular for patio candles on either clear or colored glass. Just slip the netting over any glass up to 4" in diameter and trim off the excess at the top.
- RINEGLAS TRANSFERS - Since Rineglas Transfers adhere best to glass - they're a "natural" for converting an ordinary glass candle into a decorator's delight... particularly since they come in so many exquisite designs and patterns. Endless exciting variations are possible by combining the various patterns. Added color may be introduced by applying various shapes cut out from the translucent Rineglas colored sheets and a "backdrop" behind the patterns.
- SEQUINS - Sequins come in so many different shapes and colors that their decorating potential is as unlimited on glass container candles as it is on regular block candles. With the aid of glue and a Little imagination - they may be arranged artistically on any glass container.
- GLASS DROPLETS - For an original hobnail effect - adhere these small "droplets" of glass onto any glass container. Because of their size and weight, each droplet must be affixed individually with a strong, clear drying glue or cement.
- GLASS NUGGETS - For another unique effect attained with glass - cover your container with these colorful irregular shaped bits of glass. Being smaller in size than the droplets - they may be sprinkled on, rather than being positioned individually.
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If, through the normal burning of your candle, all the wax is not consumed in the glass, you will probably want to remove this wax before re-pouring the candle again, particularly if the glass is clear and the interior is readily seen. Of course, if the glass is coated or covered so that any remaining wax will not be apparent - it is possible to refill the container with the old wax left as is. If, however, you wish to remove the wax - these simple steps will make your task much easier.
- Place the glass container in a pan of hot water with a trivet underneath the glass to keep it positioned off the bottom of the pan.
- Place the pan on your stove with the burner set at low to maintain a high water temperature. Don't Let the ·water boil unless you are absolutely sure your glass container can withstand such extreme heat.
- If the sides of your container are straight - you may withdraw the wax "plug" in approximately 15 minutes by pulling up on the wick. If, however, your container has a small opening you will have to wait, of course, until the wax plug has melted enough to remove through the smaller opening. Any Liquid wax remaining may them be poured into a small container - NOT YOUR SINK.
- Wipe clean the interior of the glass with a paper towel and you're ready to pour a new candle.
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Rolling beeswax candles is a fun and easy project for all ages. GloryBee beeswax sheets are made from 100% pure beeswax and will give your candles several desirable qualities that you and your friends will enjoy, including the fact that beeswax candles are smokeless and dripless and also they will burn longer than a petroleum based candle. Rolled candles are easy to make because you need very little equipment. All you need is a clean, flat cutting and rolling surface; an X-acto knife; a ruler; and a pair of scissors. Some optional equipment you may want to use for decorating include cookie cutters, spray glitter, ribbon, dried flowers, etc. To get you going, here are a few suggestions for types of rolled beeswax candles that you can make.
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- Step 1. Cut 3 sheets of beeswax lengthwise so that each strip is 4" x 6" long. More or less sheets can be used depending upon how wide you want your candle. You can also make your pillar candle taller by cutting the sheet at 6" or by leaving it at 8" wide.
- Step 2. Place your wick at one end of the 4" x 16" strip and begin rolling. Make sure the first roll around the wick is tight and even. When you near the end of the first strip. attach the second strip by gently pressing the two ends together. Repeat this process until you have rolled all the strips together to achieve the desired thickness. Gently push the seam into the side of the candle.
- Variation: For a square or triangular pillar candle, follow the same directions as above, but when you reach about a third of the finished diameter begin squaring the candle with each roll. Do this by pressing firmly on a solid surface to flatten one side of the square. Then gently pinch the edge to produce a right angle. This works easier if the wax is slightly warm. Roll enough to flatten another side, pinch and continue until finished. It is also helpful to use the edge of a ruler when rolling to produce a sharper edge.
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- Step 1. Cut one full sheet of beeswax in half. Trim any excess wax to make each half 8" x 8".
- Step 2. Cut each 8" x 8" sheet diagonally starting at the upper left hand corner and cutting across to the right hand side 1/2" down from the top. If you would like more of a tapered effect, increase the slope of the diagonal cut.
- Step 3. Begin rolling one sheet with your wick placed on the longer side of the sheet. Roll from left to right. Make sure that the first roll is tight and even in order to firmly secure the wick.
- Step 4. When finished rolling. gently push the seam into the side of the candle. Since beeswax is a natural adhesive, no other material is needed to hold the seam down. Repeat the process of rolling with your second 8" x 8" sheet.
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- Step 1. Cut one sheet of beeswax into eight 3-1/2" x 4" pieces. Taper each of these pieces by cutting diagonally starting at the upper left hand corner of the 3-1/2" side and cutting across to slightly below the upper right hand corner. (See diagram for tapered candles on reverse side. These are the same, only smaller).
- Step 2. Place a 4" piece of wick on the tallest straight edge of the first piece and roll from left to right. When finished rolling, gently push the end into the side of the finished candle. Repeat this process for each of the remaining seven pieces.
- Note: Each sheet makes 8 candles that are 3-1/2" high and 1/2" wide.
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| Don't waste your scraps of beeswax! Here are a couple of projects to make with those scraps: |
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- Votive Candles Cut two 2" x 18" strips of beeswax, Place 2" of wick at one end of one strip and begin rolling from left tg right. Make sure to roll tight and even for better burning results. When you are near the end of the first strip. attach the second strip by overlapping the two ends and gently press together. When you are finished rolling, gently push the end into the side of the finished candle. (See diagram for pillar candles on the reverse side. These are the same, only smaller).
- Small Christmas Bees Cut a 2" x 16" strip of beeswax in hall, diagonally. Place a 2" piece of wick on the 2" side and begin rolling from the tallest side to the shortest side. Gently press the end into the side of the finished candle. Decorate your little trees with glitter or even other small scraps of the beeswax that have been cut to look like ornaments or garland.
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- If smoking or dripping occurs, your candles may not be rolled tightly enough, Try rolling candles tighter and make sure that they are not being burned in a draft.
- Over time beeswax develops a cloudy film on its surface which is called "bloom". Bloom verifies the authenticity of natural beeswax and can be removed By warming sheets with a hairdryer. Make sure that you don't hold the hairdryer too long In one spot because you don't want to melt the wax.
- Roll your candles In a warm room, The warmer the beeswax is the more pliable it becomes which makes the sheets easier to roll, if you are still experiencing problems with rolling, warm the sheets quickly with a hairdryer.
- The estimated burn time is 4 hours for a 1/2 sheet of wax and 8 hours for a Full sheet. If you think your candles are burning too quickly, try to roll them tighter.
- Have Fun and Enjoy!
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These gel candles will be a sure fire hit with your valentine and more importantly they are fun and easy to make. This project can be varied to include other fragrances and hard candies.
You Will Need:
- 4 pieces Medium Papercore Wicking (4-5 lengths)
- 4 Wick Tabs
- 24 oz. GloryBee Gel Candle Wax
- 2 teaspoons GloryBee Fragrance Oil (of your choice)
- 4 Clear Glass Votive Holders (2-3 diameter, 2-3 tall) heart shaped hard candies or conversation hearts
- needle nose pliers
- Wick Bar or pencil
- Thermometer
Instructions:
Assemble tab and wicking by clamping wick tabs onto the end of the wicking with needle nose pliers. Suspend this assembly from the top of your votive holder either with a wick bar or with a pencil. Center the wick tab at the bottom of your votive holder while keeping the wick as straight as possible (the wick tab should just slightly touch the bottom). Pour candy around wick & tab assembly at bottom of holder. Pour to about 1/2 deep. Melt Gel Candle Wax in pan on stove top over low heat for 10-15 minutes or until liquefied. Do not heat the gel above 220 degrees F as smoking may occur. Monitor temperature with a thermometer. When gel is completely liquefied, remove from heat and add fragrance. Stir gently until fragrance is completely blended. Let gel cool to 180-190 degrees F. Using protection for your hands, carefully transfer the melted gel to a glass measuring cup and pour into votive holders. Let candle cool completely before handling (approx. 1-2 hours). For best results, keep wick trimmed 1/4 from candle surface. Do not burn to bottom of candle. Burn until the gel surface is 1/4 above the candies. Makes approx. 4 gel candles.
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| HONEYSTIX Tips |
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Bite or pinch open the heat seal at one end, then squeeze the honey into your mouth.
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Enjoy HONEYSTIX: In coffee or tea, in a smoothie, on cereal, toast, muffins, rice cakes, pudding or
ice cream "anywhere you want a teaspoonful of delicious sweetness".
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| HONEY Tips |
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When substituting honey for sugar in your own favorite recipes, substitute equal amounts of honey for sugar, up to one cup. Then reduce the total amount of other liquids by 1/4 cup for every cup of honey used.
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Honey, because it is hydroscopic, tends to keep food moist and tender. Therefore, if you are baking goodies for kids away at school, service members overseas, or friends out of town, always bake with honey to ensure freshness. When baking with honey, lower the oven temperature from 25 to 30degrees Fahrenheit to prevent over-browning. When measuring honey, first coat the measuring utensil with a small amount of oil so the honey will not stick. Use 1/4 teaspoon of soda for each cup of honey in baking. This will neutralize honeys natural acidity.
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Store honey at room temperature rather than in the refrigerator. Keep it tightly covered and in a dry place.
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If honey granulates, place its container in hot water until the honey reliquifies.
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| Soap Making Tips |
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The 5 steps listed below are basic instructions for making M & P soap.
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We recommend to melt the soap in a double boiler (a melting pot within a pan of boiling water) on the stovetop or in the microwave. Heat until the solid soap becomes a liquid.
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Add color to your melting pot when you add the solid soap base. The color will melt with the base which allows it to become more evenly dispersed. Stir gently, but infrequently to avoid bubbles. The amount of color to add depends on the type of colorant used.
Follow directions that are on the label of the colorant.
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Add scent when base is melted, but before casting into molds. If added too soon, the scent can boil out of the liquid base. Use any type of fragrance that you like (fragrance oils, essential oils and/or your favorite perfume). The amount of scent to add depends on the type of fragrance used and on personal preference. We recommend to start out with 1 teaspoon of fragrance oil per Ib. of soap and work up from there. If you are using essential oils, start out with 5-10 drops per Ib. of soap and work up from there.
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You can add other ingredients to your M & P soap if you wish. Some options include carrier oils such as almond oil, aloe vera oil and vitamin E oil; dried flowers such as rose petals and/or lavender; exfolliants such as loofah and/or oatmeal - the possibilities are endless! If you do add additional carrier oils to your soap, we do recommend to heat these for a short while before you add the solid soap base and then melt the base with the oil. Carrier oils tend to pool in the soap base if it is not done in this manner.
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Once you have melted your soap, added color, scent and any other additives you are ready to mold it. You can use basically anything for a soap mold, but plastic does work best. Some ideas include pre-made figure molds, loaf pans, bread tubes, cookie cutters, tupperware, pvc pipe, etc. When you have poured your soap into the mold of your choice, you might notice air bubbles that have risen to the top. One "trick of the trade" to get rid of these air bubbles is to spray some rubbing alcohol on the soap immediately after you have poured it and you will see the bubbles disappear. Allow your soap to dry. The time depends on the size and type of mold that you use. We recommend to let the soap cool in the mold for at least 4-5 hours (longer if the mold is larger). You can speed up this process of cooling by sticking the soap in the freezer for about half an hour, but the soap will need to "dry" for a couple of hours once you have taken them out of the molds if you choose to use this method.
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| Body Care Tips |
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- 2 cups sugar
- 2/3 cup honey
- 1 T Sweet Almond Oil
- 1/2 t rosemary essential oil
- 1/2 t lavender essential oil
- 2 T dried lavender
- 1 T dried rosemary
Instructions:
Mix oil, sugar and honey. Add essential oils and mix to distribute scent. Add herbs, mix again. Spoon into jars.
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To make peppermint lip Balm, you will need the following:
- 1 oz. pure, Filtered Beeswax
- 1/2 cup Sweet Almond Oil
- 1/2 teaspoon Vitamin E Oil
- 1/4 teaspoon Aloe Vera Concentrate
- 1/2 teaspoon Peppermint Essential Oil
Instructions:
Combine Beeswax, Sweet Almond oil, Vitamin E oil and Aloe Vera concentrate in a small, pourable container (a glass measuring cup works well). Place this container in a saucepan filled with approx. 2 inches of water. Heat the mixture over medium heat until beeswax is completely liquefied. Remove from heat and add essential oil. Pour into containers. Cool completely before use. Makes approx. two dozen 5 gram (.15 oz.) pots or tubes.
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To make Luxurious Lavender Bath Salts, you will need the following:
- 2 cups Epsom Salts
- 3/4 cup Sea Salt
- 2 tablespoons Soluble Dextrose
- 1/2 cup dried Lavender
- 2 tablespoons Liquid Vegetable Glycerin
- 6 drops Amethyst Gel Tone Colorant
- 6 drops Lavender Essential Oil
Instructions:
Combine dry ingredients (epsom salts, sea salt, soluble dextrose and dried lavender) in medium bowl and mix well. In a glass measuring cup, mix the liquid vegetable glycerin with the liquid colorant and essential oil. Slowly, pour the liquid mixture into the dry mixture while stirring with a wooden spoon. Continue to stir until color is evenly dispersed throughout. Spread salts out on to a wax paper lined cookie sheet and let dry for 24 hours. When dry (salts may still be slightly wet), pour into decorative containers. Makes approx. 4 1/2 cups.
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To make Bath Bombs, you will need the following:
- 2 cups Baking Soda
- 2/3 cup Citric Acid
- 2 tablespoons Soluble Dextrose
- 5 tablespoons Sweet Almond Oil
- 6 drops Gel Tone Colorant (of your choice)
- 6 drops Essential Oil (of your choice) or
- 1 teaspoon of Fragrance Oil (of your choice)
Instructions:
Combine dry ingredients (Baking Soda, Citric Acid and Soluble Dextrose) in medium bowl and mix well making sure to break up any clumps. In a glass measuring cup, mix the Sweet Almond Oil with the essential oil, colorant and fragrance. Very quickly so that the base does not start to fizz, pour the oil mixture into the dry mixture. Continue to mix all ingredients together with your fingers until all the oil has been completely absorbed and dispersed. You will know when it is completely mixed when it stays compressed when squeezed in your hand (does not fall apart immediately). Prepare mold by wiping the inside with a small amount of Sweet Almond Oil. This will prevent your "bombs" from sticking to the mold. Fill 1/3 of your mold with the mixture and press down firmly. Repeat this process until your mold is completely filled and the ingredients are packed firmly. Smooth the edges and top with a straight edge knife. Turn your mold over and bang firmly on a flat surface lined with wax paper until the "bombs" slide out of the mold. Let the "bombs" set for 24 hours and then they are ready to use! Makes approx. six 2.5 oz. bath bombs.
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